Trip to 청주 (Cheongju, South Korea) on 11 July 2009

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2009-07-11_kr-cheongju_unbo-house.htm

I discovered 청주 (Cheongju, South Korea) on 11 July 2009 thanks to my local colleague 남규 (Namkyoo), who wished to show me the house of 김 기창 (KIM Ki-Chang) aka 운보 (Unbo), a Korean painter notably known for drawing 세종대왕 (Sejong the Great) on ₩10.000 banknotes. A grey sky accompanied heat and humidity, a usual mark of the rainy season in South Korea.

After eating my best sushis in the country so far, 남규 (Namkyoo) drove me, his wife and daughter to 운보의 집 (Unbo's house). I appreciated the garden, compact but not overloaded, designed with talent and well maintained. I contemplated landscapes weaving nature with man-made artefacts and lotuses floating over miniature ponds carved in rock statues. I was surprised by the presence of numerous bonsais, which I solely associated to Japan, before admiring the artist's paintings at the gallery, enjoying his simple but deep colorful style. A few minutes away, we stopped the car near a long wall painted with scenes of the four seasons then again to face impressive sculptures made of junk, including an easily-recognizable version of the manga robot マジンガーＺ (Mazinger Z). Finally, we visited 청주 고인쇄박물관 (Cheongju early printing museum), which exhibited ancient artefacts and documents and exposed history using automata.

This day in good company was exciting and stimulating, and I only regret that my Korean language abilities were insufficient to chat with my colleague's young daughter.

Trip to 안동 (Andong, South Korea) on 19-22 June 2009

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2009-06-20_kr-andong.htm

I travelled to 안동 (Andong, South Korea) for the first time on 19 June 2009 to meet my local friend 장우 (Jangwoo), and hike nearby. With the rainy season just starting, the weather was capricious but–as usual–I was lucky for the hike. Nevertheless, the sky broke loose on departure day...

The first evening, we ate Korean food prepared by 장우 (Jangwoo)'s mother, strolled at the local dam, and played a few billiards games. On Saturday, we visited 도산서원 (Dosan Seowon), a famous academy displayed on ₩1.000 banknotes, then dodged rain drops to see the 12m-tall 제비원 (Jebiwon) statue of Buddha. While mom was asleep, I experienced my first Korean nightclub then a karaoke with 장우 (Jangwoo) and one of his friends. The nightclub confused me much as the dance floor was smaller than the space for tables and seats, and as the staff moved customers around, guiding girls to the tables of guys, while the huge stage alternatively featured disc jockeys, female musicians, and a male stripper! Bewildering :) Still energetic on Sunday, 장우 (Jangwoo), one of his cousins, his mom, and I hiked four hours among the trees of 주왕산 국립공원 (Juwangsan national park) under an oppressive sun; the highest peak called us but dark was coming too fast for a full climb.

The stay was pleasant and entertaining; despite our diverse activities, I strangely feel that I fully enjoyed and relaxed everywhere. Maybe there is a lesson for my life in the capital? Anyway, I plan another trip in the region to visit folk villages and attend the famous local mask festival held every year in September-October.

Stroll at 국립서울현충원 (Seoul National Cemetery, South Korea) on 06 June 2009

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2009-06-06_kr-seoul.htm

I first visited 국립서울현충원 (Seoul National Cemetery), located in 서울 (Seoul, South Korea), with 숙현 (Sook-Hyeon) on 06 June 2009 to observe Korean life on 현충일 (Memorial Day). Numerous civilians and soldiers walked the alleys of this huge cemetery under a bright sky; many paying homage to 육영수 (YUK Young-soo) and her husband, the ex-president 박정희 (PARK Chung-Hee), assassinated in 1974 and 1979. I was flabbergasted to see whole families gaily picnic among the tombs as I cannot imagine French people doing so but was told this is a normal way to commune with one's kin in South Korea. The vegetation and hills contributed to a peaceful and pleasant atmosphere while providing some intimacy.

After seeing atrocities displayed so gloomily (see Post 17 May 2009) at 독립기념관 (Independence Hall of Korea) in 천안 (Cheonan), this uplifting experience made me feel closer to the local population.

Trip to 경주 (Gyeongju, South Korea) on 22-25 May 2009

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2009-05-23_kr-gyeongju.htm

I travelled to 경주 (Gyeongju, South Korea) for the second time on 22 May 2009 to visit 불국사 (Bulguksa temple), which is a UNESCO world heritage, and hike at 남산 (Namsan) with Olga and Yerbol, two friends studying in the region. Clouds hovered over the region but the weather remained pleasant.

I appreciated the local historical assets and traditional ambiance but was surprised by the distances: one may see much with a bicycle in two days. However, I was slightly disappointed as I expected older, bigger and more numerous touristic sites because several Japanese friends had compared the city to 京都 (Kyoto, Japan); Koreans indicated that the area would be markedly more attractive had Japan not damaged or destroyed so much during wars and occupations... From another perspective, I also enjoyed unique coffee shops, delicious restaurants and, as we kept on bumping into acquaintances of Olga and Yerbol, a countryside atmosphere in which all people seemed to know each other.

The air, ambiance and smaller crowds agreeably contrasted with my everyday life in 서울 (Seoul, South Korea). For newcomers, two or three full days seem appropriate to discover the historical sites and enjoy the city, with one or two additional days for hikes. I will gladly return there to complete my visit and explore 남산 (Namsan) from another side.

Trip to 천안 (Cheonan, South Korea) on 17 May 2009

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2009-05-17_kr-cheonan.htm

I travelled to 천안 (Cheonan, South Korea) for the first time on 17 May 2009 to visit 외암민속마을 (Oeam folk village) and 독립기념관 (Independence Hall of Korea) in company of 진영 (Jin-young) and 현진 (Hyunjin), two locals. The weather was warm but unfortunately cloudy most of the day.

I enjoyed the trip much as I had never visited a traditional village in South Korea before; it differed in many respects from 白川郷 (Shirakawa-go, Japan), which I visited in 2006 (see Post 06 August 2006): buildings are lower, roofs flatter, and walls along paths more numerous. As for the memorial hall, it was impressive for its hugeness, the beauty of some buildings, the peacefulness of the natural surroundings, and for troubling historical presentations including torture scenes and human-scale models of executions of Koreans by Japanese soldiers. Such crudeness reminded me of 서대문형무소 (Seodaemun Prison, South Korea) in 서울 (Seoul), something I have never witnessed in public spaces outside South Korea.

Stroll at 여의도 (Yeouido, South Korea) on 12 April 2009

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2009-04-12_kr-yeouido.htm

I first walked in 여의도 (Yeouido, South Korea), a part of 서울 (Seoul), on 12 April 2009 to enjoy its famous cherry blossoms. Although the peak had passed, the streets were beautiful, and the blue sky greatly highlighted the flowers. Moving to 여의도 공원 (Yeouido park), I got greeted several times in English by Korean children, who then asked whether I was American, which is unsurprising as most white guys in the country must be American soldiers; the kids looked pretty confused to learn I was French! However, the young adult who accosted me to offer an Easter egg and invite me to join a Christian group was not unsettled by my nationality. Later, I started wondering what spontaneous contacts to expect from women and elders in the capital as well as from all kinds of Koreans in the countryside... Beyond the social sphere, the park itself was enjoyable, with a beautiful statue of 세종대왕 (Sejong the Great) and specific ambiances associated to each area.

Since my move to South Korea, it was my first time to actively visit the capital and reflect upon life here while observing children, families, couples, small and huge groups of friends, and a few elders. People visibly enjoyed their afternoon with diverse activities, infusing the park with peacefulness and liveliness. The nearby cherry trees reminded me of Japanese spots but the open spaces of 北京 (Beijing, China) (see Post 28 July 2007); the greetings from smiling kids, however, had a unique touch.

Trip to 鋸山 (Mount Nokogiri, Japan) on 14 September 2008

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2008-09-14_jp-nokogiri.htm

I travelled to 鋸山 (Mount Nokogiri, Japan) for the first time with めぐみ (Megumi) on 14 September 2008 to see the tallest statue of Buddha in Japan. Other memorable sights at 日本寺 (Nihon-ji temple) were the 30.3m-tall 百尺観音 (Hundred-shaku Kannon), 千五百羅漢 (1500 small statues of Arhats), and views of the surrounding lands and sea from the observatory. Before leaving, we relaxed at the closest coffee shop, just after a tunnel on the way to 浜金谷駅 (Hamakanaya station), which had a charming ambiance and a great view over the sea for sunset.

Trip to 那覇 (Naha, Japan) on 25-29 March 2008

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2008-03_jp-okinawa.htm

I travelled to 沖縄 (Okinawa, Japan) for the first time on 25-29 March 2008 to give a talk at the 22nd International Conference on Advanced Information Networking and Applications in 那覇 (Naha) with Christian. We drove nearby to discover the landscapes, relax on the coast, and reach great coffee shops and restaurants. The climate was so warm at night that I barely slept without air conditioning.

Christian and I were globally satisfied by the most famous places of the island. We were impressed by the depictions of war at ひめゆり平和祈念資料館 (Himeyuri Peace Museum) and by the live 7.9m-long whale sharks of 美ら海水族館 (Churaumi Aquarium), which is a great and unique aquarium. Nearby, the less well-known 熱帯ドリームセンター (Tropical Dream Center) was also worth a visit. However, we were disappointed by 首里城 (Shuri castle), a UNESCO world heritage, which was crowded and radiated a theme-park aura; we enjoyed much more the modest and quiet 識名園 (Shikina garden).

After several cold months in 東京 (Tokyo), this stay was a pleasure. Although moving without a car is unrealistic, the pace is slower and the food delicious. I recommend カフェくるくま (Café Kurukuma), オリーブの木店 (Olive tree restaurant), 花人逢レストラン (Restaurant Kajinbo) with its funny menu written on a fan, ブリリアント・モトブヒルズ (Brilliante Motobu Hills), and above all the extraordinary ぱいかじ上之屋店 (Paikaji Uenoya restaurant). Beware however of the アメリカンビレッジ (American village): we enjoyed an interesting ambiance but had terrible food there.

[Update 04-Nov-2008] I explored jungles, walked among traditional houses, and toured beaches in several Southern islands of 沖縄 (Okinawa) during my second trip there, from 31 October to 03 November 2008 (see Post 04 November 2008).

Trip to 北海道 (Hokkaido, Japan) on 31 January - 04 February 2008

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2008-02-01_jp-hokkaido.htm

My second trip to 北海道 (Hokkaido, Japan) was in February to attend winter festivals, and East to see the Russian islands disputed by Japan. I landed with François for three full days in the cold evening of Thursday 31 January (-14°C) and took-off on 04 February morning; 亮 (Ryo) stayed a bit shorter. François and I immediately savoured a great cheese fondue at the bar STAX in 釧路 (Kushiro) then slept at ラビスタ釧路川 (La Vista Kushirogawa hotel), which features an outdoor spa with a nice view over the city.

Friday, we enjoyed a gorgeous breakfast at the hotel then rented a Nissan car, very useful due to the rarity of local buses and trains. Driving was a pleasure: very nice machine, very nice shapes, and very nice pink :) The sea on the way to 納沙布 (Nosappu) was frozen and white near the coast but fluid and blue beyond. On arrival, we heard the gravel-like sound of icy waves. The Russian islands called 北方領土 (Hopporyodo) by the Japanese were clearly visible thanks to the dry winter air, and we got a worthy aerial view from an observation tower after a short walk. On our way back to the city, we admired the sunset and spotted impressive herds of deers walking in the snow. We met 亮 (Ryo) in 釧路 (Kushiro), checked the ice and snow statues of 釧路氷祭 (Kushiro ice festival) then dined at the funny 七人の小人 (The Seven Dwarves) and finished with a cheese fondue at the bar STAX.

On Saturday, we composed our breakfast at the fish market, filling rice bowls with our preferred raw fish, shells and eggs, which was expensive but good with crab soup. We then returned to the park to see the statues in daylight, where I was impressed by the ice statue of Pegasus. A short drive then led us to a huge cemetery by the sea, with Buddhist, Christian and 神道 (Shinto) tombs. After lunch, we drove to 阿寒湖 (Lake Akan), with a stop to drink hot local milk. We dined at ホテル阿寒湖荘 (Hotel Akankoso) then watched fireworks of 阿寒湖氷上フェスティバル (Akan ice festival) from the nearby frozen lake before relaxing at 木の香 (Fragrance of trees) outdoor spa, where the cold air was breath-taking.

Sunday, we enjoyed a snowy road on our way to 摩周湖 (Lake Mashu), a splendid UNESCO world heritage site, where I could watch shadows and reflections all day long. However, we had planned to see red-crested cranes and thus moved to 釧路湿原国立公園 (Kushiro shitsugen national park), where wild animals are visible in vast flat lands using binoculars. We quickly spotted deers on a frozen river but not cranes. However, a local recommended us a nearby spot called 鶴見台 (Tsurumi-dai) where we observed huge groups of wild red-crested cranes eating, singing and flying. Satisfied but cold, we drank delicious hot chocolates and discussed our adventures at the nearby どれみふぁ空 (Do-re-mi-fa-so-la). After driving 亮 (Ryo) to the airport, everything seemed over but François and I continued with a delicious dinner at 焼肉つすみ (Korean barbecue Tsurumi), and a drink at a local jazz bar that turned out to be great!

Trip to 서울 (Seoul, South Korea) on 03-08 September 2007

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2007-09-08_kr-seoul.htm

I travelled to 서울 (Seoul, South Korea) for the first time on 03-08 September 2007 to give a talk at the 10th International Symposium on Analysis, Design, and Evaluation of Human-Machine Systems (aka HMS2007) and another at 연세대학교 (Yonsei university) (see Post 07 September 2007). On my first day, I explored the city center and walked to the top of 남산 (Namsan park), where I lingered on great views over the capital. On my last day, 자영 (Jayoung), a Korean researcher from the university, and her friend 질 (Jin) guided me inside 경복궁 (Gyeongbok Palace) and accompanied me for lunch in the charming 인사동 (Insadong) district.

I loved the relaxing and lively atmosphere of the capital, its great landscapes and tasty food, its classy women and skilled jazz musicians. Behaviors and costs differ greatly from 東京 (Tokyo, Japan): people are more friendly but more noisy, notably in subways; traditional dishes such as 비빔밥 (bibimbap) and transportation, even taxis, are quite cheap. Living several months in 서울 (Seoul) would certainly be a heartening and enriching experience.

Trip to 北京 (Beijing, China) on 22-28 July 2007

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2007-07_cn-beijing.htm

I travelled to 北京 (Beijing, China) for the first time on 22-28 July 2007 to give two talks at the 12th International Conference on Human-Computer Interaction (aka HCII2007). During my stay, I visited the famous 天安门广场 (Tiananmen Square), 紫禁城 (Forbidden City), 天坛 (Temple of Heaven), and 北海公园 (Beihai Park). 超 (Chao), a Chinese classmate from 総合研究大学院大学 (Sokendai, Japan), took me in charge the first evening, and showed me 天安门广场 (Tiananmen Square) before telling me how to deal with the city and inviting me for a gorgeous dinner.

The city was extremely polluted, with grey fog on daytime and halos on street lamps at night, especially at 天安门广场 (Tiananmen Square), which is surrounded by incredible streets. The only patch of blue sky I noticed was above 天坛公园 (Temple of Heaven park), where lies 天坛 (Temple of Heaven), a UNESCO world heritage site that features 祈年殿 (Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests) and 圜丘坛 (Circular Mound Altar).

I quickly toured 紫禁城 (Forbidden City), another UNESCO world heritage site, with conference fellows but should return for the inside of the buildings. However, I fully enjoyed alone 雍和宮 (Lama Temple), the gigantic 北海公园 (Beihai Park) with its beautiful 九龙壁 (Nine-Dragon Screen) and 白塔 (White Dagoba), the historical 明城墙遗址公园 (Ming City Wall Ruins Park), and the exotic 王府井大街 (Wangfujing street), where I pondered whether to eat scorpions or not...

Exhibition at Musée d'Orsay (Orsay Museum, France) on 13 April 2007

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2007-04-13_fr-orsay.htm

I enjoyed my favourite French museum, the Musée d'Orsay (Orsay Museum, France), in Paris on 13 April 2007 in company of François and Valentine, whom I had not met for a long time. A former train station, the building is spacious, beautiful and bright. The art works are mainly masterpieces that tell us stories both individually and in connexion with their surroundings. As always, my admiration goes to the architects and artists, and my congratulations and best wishes to the staff.

Hike in 鎌倉 (Kamakura, Japan) on 18 March 2007

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2007-03_jp-kamakura.htm

I hiked 天園ハイキングコース (Ten-en hiking course) in 鎌倉 (Kamakura, Japan) on 18 March 2007 with 明日香 (Asuka) to breath fresh air and admire statues of 天狗 (tengus). The weather was fine for our five kilometers across the forest, with clear views over 横浜 (Yokomaha) in the north-east and the sea in the south. We walked from 鎌倉 (Kamakura) station to 鶴岡八幡宮 (Tsurugaoka-hachimangu shrine) then checked several temples on the way to 瑞泉寺 (Zuisenji temple). There, we started the hike, which took us to 建長寺 (Kenchoji temple); its buildings and statues were great rewards after the physical effort.

Snow festival in 札幌 (Sapporo, Japan) on 08-10 February 2007

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2007-02-08_jp-sapporo.htm

I visited 札幌 (Sapporo, Japan) for the first time on 08-10 February 2007 to attend 札幌雪祭 (Sapporo Snow Festival) and to discover 北海道 (Hokkaido). The festival is famous in Japan for its ice and snow statues but there is more to see, and the trip is really worth it. I was lucky with the weather as it snowed every day, sometimes heavily, but with periods that allowed clear photos. I enjoyed the city and the locals, even spontaneously being talked to by customers at a coffee shop, which never happened in 東京 (Tokyo).

Alone, I freely wandered in town the first day, exploring the streets, relaxing with a warm coffee, and watching statues on day time and night time. The following day, I went up the nearby 藻岩山 (Mount Moiwa) to enjoy beautiful but slightly foggy views from its top. There, I stumbled upon a bar completely made of ice and snow by artists: the bar The Ice, where I had a drink and chatted with the staff and fellow tourists. On my last day, I relaxed and enjoyed views away from the city, at 豊平峡温泉 (Hoheikyo hot spring), an open-air hot spring surrounded by snowy foresty mountains that I definitely recommend.

Trip to 伊豆半島 (Izu peninsula, Japan) on 20-21 January 2007

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2007-01-20_jp-izu.htm

I visited 伊豆半島 (Izu peninsula, Japan) on 20-21 January 2007 with 明日香 (Asuka) to discover a new part of Japan and enjoy an open-air hot spring with an oceanic view. To avoid resorts, we directly reached 下田 (Shimoda), where we strolled a while and visited temples; we particularly appreciated the view over the bay from 寝姿山 (Mount Nesugata). In the evening, we rode a fun train to 蓮台寺 (Rendaiji), and spent the night at 金谷旅館 (Kanaya ryokan), which was expensive but huge, with a gorgeous hot spring. The next day, we enjoyed the landscapes of the peninsula by bus. We stopped at 堂ヶ島 (Dogashima) to bath in the tiny 沢田公園露天風呂 (Sawada-koen open-air hot spring) and to see the coast by boat. We then rode a bus to 修善寺 (Shuzenji city), where we visited 修善寺 (Shuzenji temple), and paddled in a mineral hot spring situated on a rocky promontory in the middle of 桂川 (river Katsura) called 独鈷の湯 (Tokko-no-yu).

Trip to 伊勢 (Ise, Japan) on 03 January 2007

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2007-01_jp-ise.htm

I traveled to 伊勢志摩 (Ise-shima, Japan) on 03 January 2007 with 明日香 (Asuka) for a New Year visit to one of the most famous Japanese holy places: 伊勢神宮 (Ise-jingu). The city was extremely crowded, which I expected because Japanese from all over the country pray here during the first days of January for a good year. After our pilgrimage, we walked in 二見 (Futami), breathing the invigorating air of the sea, and enjoying 夫婦岩 (Wedded rocks), a famous pair of rocks connected by a holy rope near 與玉神社 (Okitama shrine), which is my preferred local spot.

Trip to 奥多摩 (Okutama, Japan) on 14 November 2006

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2006-11_jp-okutama.htm

I relaxed and enjoyed 紅葉 (autumn colours) in 奥多摩 (Okutama, Japan) on 14 November 2006 with eight Japanese friends. We quietly walked to 武蔵御嶽神社 (Musashi-ontake shrine) then strolled near a lake surrounded by mountains, appreciating the warmth and the calmness of the area.

Trip to 那須 (Nasu, Japan) on 21-22 February 2006

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2006-02_jp-nasu.htm

I visited 那須 (Nasu, Japan) for the first time on 21-22 February 2006 to relax in the mountains with めぐみ (Megumi). The omnipresent snow created a special atmosphere, both calming and providing a feeling of remote exploration. I was very surprised and moved by an endless field of statues of 地蔵 (Jizo) because I had never seen such a thing and because these statues were each provided to pray for the death of a young child.

Trip to 長崎 (Nagasaki, Japan) on 06-10 December 2005

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2005-12_jp-nagasaki.htm

I visited 長崎 (Nagasaki, Japan) for the first time on 06-10 December 2005 to attend the 2005 International Conference on Embedded and Ubiquitous Computing (aka EUC2005), where I gave a talk. During my stay, I was moved by 長崎原爆資料館 (Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum), and enjoyed the vast 平和公園 (Peace Park), the rebuilt 浦上天主堂 (Urakami cathedral), the strange but impressive 福済寺 (Fukusai temple), and the relaxing グラバー園 (Glover Garden).

Trip to 鬼怒川 (Kinugawa, Japan) on 26-27 November 2005

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2005-11_jp-kinugawa.htm

I relaxed and enjoyed 紅葉 (autumn colours) at 鬼怒川 (Kinugawa, Japan) on 26-27 November 2005 with good friends: Alexander, Christian, Kathy, and 亮助 (Ryosuke). First, we visited the city and relaxed at a scenic 露天風呂 (outdoor spa). We then had a delicious and copious traditional dinner at 丸京旅館 (Marukyo ryokan). The following day, we spotted a rainbow at 虹見滝 (Rainbow waterfalls), and strolled at the nearby 龍王峡 (Ryuo gorge), admiring crimson and gold leaves.