Trip to 청주 (Cheongju, South Korea) on 11 July 2009

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2009-07-11_kr-cheongju_unbo-house.htm

I discovered 청주 (Cheongju, South Korea) on 11 July 2009 thanks to my local colleague 남규 (Namkyoo), who wished to show me the house of 김 기창 (KIM Ki-Chang) aka 운보 (Unbo), a Korean painter notably known for drawing 세종대왕 (Sejong the Great) on ₩10.000 banknotes. A grey sky accompanied heat and humidity, a usual mark of the rainy season in South Korea.

After eating my best sushis in the country so far, 남규 (Namkyoo) drove me, his wife and daughter to 운보의 집 (Unbo's house). I appreciated the garden, compact but not overloaded, designed with talent and well maintained. I contemplated landscapes weaving nature with man-made artefacts and lotuses floating over miniature ponds carved in rock statues. I was surprised by the presence of numerous bonsais, which I solely associated to Japan, before admiring the artist's paintings at the gallery, enjoying his simple but deep colorful style. A few minutes away, we stopped the car near a long wall painted with scenes of the four seasons then again to face impressive sculptures made of junk, including an easily-recognizable version of the manga robot マジンガーＺ (Mazinger Z). Finally, we visited 청주 고인쇄박물관 (Cheongju early printing museum), which exhibited ancient artefacts and documents and exposed history using automata.

This day in good company was exciting and stimulating, and I only regret that my Korean language abilities were insufficient to chat with my colleague's young daughter.

Trip to 안동 (Andong, South Korea) on 19-22 June 2009

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2009-06-20_kr-andong.htm

I travelled to 안동 (Andong, South Korea) for the first time on 19 June 2009 to meet my local friend 장우 (Jangwoo), and hike nearby. With the rainy season just starting, the weather was capricious but–as usual–I was lucky for the hike. Nevertheless, the sky broke loose on departure day...

The first evening, we ate Korean food prepared by 장우 (Jangwoo)'s mother, strolled at the local dam, and played a few billiards games. On Saturday, we visited 도산서원 (Dosan Seowon), a famous academy displayed on ₩1.000 banknotes, then dodged rain drops to see the 12m-tall 제비원 (Jebiwon) statue of Buddha. While mom was asleep, I experienced my first Korean nightclub then a karaoke with 장우 (Jangwoo) and one of his friends. The nightclub confused me much as the dance floor was smaller than the space for tables and seats, and as the staff moved customers around, guiding girls to the tables of guys, while the huge stage alternatively featured disc jockeys, female musicians, and a male stripper! Bewildering :) Still energetic on Sunday, 장우 (Jangwoo), one of his cousins, his mom, and I hiked four hours among the trees of 주왕산 국립공원 (Juwangsan national park) under an oppressive sun; the highest peak called us but dark was coming too fast for a full climb.

The stay was pleasant and entertaining; despite our diverse activities, I strangely feel that I fully enjoyed and relaxed everywhere. Maybe there is a lesson for my life in the capital? Anyway, I plan another trip in the region to visit folk villages and attend the famous local mask festival held every year in September-October.

Stroll at 국립서울현충원 (Seoul National Cemetery, South Korea) on 06 June 2009

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2009-06-06_kr-seoul.htm

I first visited 국립서울현충원 (Seoul National Cemetery), located in 서울 (Seoul, South Korea), with 숙현 (Sook-Hyeon) on 06 June 2009 to observe Korean life on 현충일 (Memorial Day). Numerous civilians and soldiers walked the alleys of this huge cemetery under a bright sky; many paying homage to 육영수 (YUK Young-soo) and her husband, the ex-president 박정희 (PARK Chung-Hee), assassinated in 1974 and 1979. I was flabbergasted to see whole families gaily picnic among the tombs as I cannot imagine French people doing so but was told this is a normal way to commune with one's kin in South Korea. The vegetation and hills contributed to a peaceful and pleasant atmosphere while providing some intimacy.

After seeing atrocities displayed so gloomily (see Post 17 May 2009) at 독립기념관 (Independence Hall of Korea) in 천안 (Cheonan), this uplifting experience made me feel closer to the local population.

Trip to 경주 (Gyeongju, South Korea) on 22-25 May 2009

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2009-05-23_kr-gyeongju.htm

I travelled to 경주 (Gyeongju, South Korea) for the second time on 22 May 2009 to visit 불국사 (Bulguksa temple), which is a UNESCO world heritage, and hike at 남산 (Namsan) with Olga and Yerbol, two friends studying in the region. Clouds hovered over the region but the weather remained pleasant.

I appreciated the local historical assets and traditional ambiance but was surprised by the distances: one may see much with a bicycle in two days. However, I was slightly disappointed as I expected older, bigger and more numerous touristic sites because several Japanese friends had compared the city to 京都 (Kyoto, Japan); Koreans indicated that the area would be markedly more attractive had Japan not damaged or destroyed so much during wars and occupations... From another perspective, I also enjoyed unique coffee shops, delicious restaurants and, as we kept on bumping into acquaintances of Olga and Yerbol, a countryside atmosphere in which all people seemed to know each other.

The air, ambiance and smaller crowds agreeably contrasted with my everyday life in 서울 (Seoul, South Korea). For newcomers, two or three full days seem appropriate to discover the historical sites and enjoy the city, with one or two additional days for hikes. I will gladly return there to complete my visit and explore 남산 (Namsan) from another side.

Trip to 천안 (Cheonan, South Korea) on 17 May 2009

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2009-05-17_kr-cheonan.htm

I travelled to 천안 (Cheonan, South Korea) for the first time on 17 May 2009 to visit 외암민속마을 (Oeam folk village) and 독립기념관 (Independence Hall of Korea) in company of 진영 (Jin-young) and 현진 (Hyunjin), two locals. The weather was warm but unfortunately cloudy most of the day.

I enjoyed the trip much as I had never visited a traditional village in South Korea before; it differed in many respects from 白川郷 (Shirakawa-go, Japan), which I visited in 2006 (see Post 06 August 2006): buildings are lower, roofs flatter, and walls along paths more numerous. As for the memorial hall, it was impressive for its hugeness, the beauty of some buildings, the peacefulness of the natural surroundings, and for troubling historical presentations including torture scenes and human-scale models of executions of Koreans by Japanese soldiers. Such crudeness reminded me of 서대문형무소 (Seodaemun Prison, South Korea) in 서울 (Seoul), something I have never witnessed in public spaces outside South Korea.

Stroll at 여의도 (Yeouido, South Korea) on 12 April 2009

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2009-04-12_kr-yeouido.htm

I first walked in 여의도 (Yeouido, South Korea), a part of 서울 (Seoul), on 12 April 2009 to enjoy its famous cherry blossoms. Although the peak had passed, the streets were beautiful, and the blue sky greatly highlighted the flowers. Moving to 여의도 공원 (Yeouido park), I got greeted several times in English by Korean children, who then asked whether I was American, which is unsurprising as most white guys in the country must be American soldiers; the kids looked pretty confused to learn I was French! However, the young adult who accosted me to offer an Easter egg and invite me to join a Christian group was not unsettled by my nationality. Later, I started wondering what spontaneous contacts to expect from women and elders in the capital as well as from all kinds of Koreans in the countryside... Beyond the social sphere, the park itself was enjoyable, with a beautiful statue of 세종대왕 (Sejong the Great) and specific ambiances associated to each area.

Since my move to South Korea, it was my first time to actively visit the capital and reflect upon life here while observing children, families, couples, small and huge groups of friends, and a few elders. People visibly enjoyed their afternoon with diverse activities, infusing the park with peacefulness and liveliness. The nearby cherry trees reminded me of Japanese spots but the open spaces of 北京 (Beijing, China) (see Post 28 July 2007); the greetings from smiling kids, however, had a unique touch.

Trip to 西表島 (Iriomote island, Japan) on 31 October - 03 November 2008

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2008-10-31_jp-okinawa.htm

I visited 沖縄 (Okinawa, Japan) for the second time from 31 October to 03 November 2008 to explore jungles, walk among traditional houses, and tour beaches far from the main island. My three sunny days and a rainy day at 26-31°C there with François were a great experience.

Contrasting with 沖縄本島 (main island of Okinawa, see Post 29 March 2008), 西表島 (Iriomote island) is quite wild, with vast protected lands, a unique road at the periphery, and beautiful seas around. We spent Friday on a tour there canoeing a river bordered by mangroves and trekking in the jungle. We encountered numerous fishes, miniature crabs, white ants (aka termites), lively lizards, and a sleeping 波布 (Habu viper) before reaching ピナイサーラの滝 (Pinaisara waterfalls), where the aerial view was captivating. After a short immersion at the bottom, we canoed back then relaxed at the mild 西表島温泉 (Iriomote-jima spa).

We started Saturday contemplating the sea while eating breakfast on the terrace of the friendly and cheap ペンション星の砂 (pension Hoshi-no-suna). Afterwards, we examined the starry sand of 星砂の浜 (Hoshisuna beach), and swam at the warm 月ヶ浜 (Tsukiga beach). Before lunch, we crossed the sea in a cart pulled by a water buffalo to stroll in the botanical garden of 由布島 (Yubu island), where one can enjoy the vegetation as well as butterflies. Finally, we drove to 南風見田の浜 (Haemida beach), where we witnessed impressive natural light shows.

For our last hours at 西表島 (Iriomote island) on Sunday, we cruised 仲間川 (Nakama river) to see mangroves, and incidentally spotted ferocious 南黒鯛 (Minami-kurodai piranhas). We then sailed for 竹富島 (Taketomi island), where we walked among traditional houses, and saw numerous flowers, beautiful waters at コンドイビーチ (Kondoi beach) and a calming sunset at 西桟橋 (Nishisanbashi). Silent, dark and unusually shaped, the village revealed itself mysterious at night.

To wrap up our vacations on Monday, we walked in the streets of 竹富島 (Taketomi island) early morning then sailed for 石垣島 (Ishigaki island), where the rain awaited us, simplifying our visit to a drive around the island. We still had sun at 玉取崎展望台 (Tamatori cape viewing platform) but got much rain afterwards. During a lull, we visited ヤエヤマヤシ (Yaeyama palm tree groves), then drank fresh guava juice while waiting for typhoon-like rain to stop. We finished the day at 川平湾 (Kabira bay) and 川平石崎 (Kabira-ishizaki) before sleeping at the sympathetic やいま日和 (Yaima Byori).

Trip to 富良野 (Furano, Japan) on 03-08 July 2008

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2008-07-03_jp-furano.htm

I visited 北海道 (Hokkaido, Japan) for the third time in July 2008 to see the famous lavender fields of 富良野 (Furano) and to hike the nearby mountains while no snow prevented it. I spent four full days there with François, including two with 亮 (Ryo), then enjoyed alone a more urban ambience in 札幌 (Sapporo).

On the contrary to 本州 (main island of Japan), 北海道 (Hokkaido) lacks train lines and frequent buses so François and I rented a car from Friday. We first visited the large 旭山動物園 (Asahiyama zoo), which offered panoramic views thanks to its slope and open sky. The animals lived in narrow spaces but looked healthy. I observed much wolves, pandas, baby monkeys, and a black panther, and I hope to see such animals in the wild someday. For a change, we continued with museums dedicated to clothing and snow: 国際染織美術館 (International Dyeing and Weaving Art Museum), 優佳良織工芸館 (Yukara Ori Folk Craft Museum) and 雪の美術館 (Snow Crystals Museum). The first was the most impressive, with well-preserved garments from several countries exhibiting diverse lifestyles and concepts. 亮 (Ryo) joined us in the evening for a great dinner at ハローウィン (Halloween).

On Saturday, we strolled in the splendid lavender fields of ファーム富田 (Farm Tomita) and in the diverse flower fields of 四季彩の丘 (Shikisai-no-oka); superb photos of these landscapes were as usual exhibited at 拓真館 (Takushinkan museum). In another style, 富良野チーズ工房 (Furano cheese factory) offered a unique experience with its robotic milking cow! The best moment of the day though was a delicious chocolate fondue at ジャンゴ (Jungo).

On Sunday, we hiked several hours in 旭岳 (Asahidake), the highest mountain in 北海道 (Hokkaido). The landscapes alternated grass, ponds, flower fields and patches of snow, and are worth a two- or three-days hike... To properly end the day, we visited the small but high-quality 川村カ子トアイヌ記念館 (Kawamura Kaneto Ainu Memorial Museum) dedicated to the indigenous people アイヌ (Ainu), where reading Japanese is quite instructive.

After the departure of 亮 (Ryo) on Monday morning, François and I drove to 十勝岳 (Tokachi-dake), enjoying local beef and grapes juice on the way. The large open space and the green and orange scenery were impressive even with a few clouds. Hiking several days there would be quite an experience. Anyway, 十勝岳温泉 (Tokachidake Onsen) is a must do, and we quietly relaxed there with a view of the valley from the outdoor spa. Finally, François and I enjoyed great coffee in 美瑛 (Biei) at 北工房 (Kita Kouboh).

Trip to 那覇 (Naha, Japan) on 25-29 March 2008

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2008-03_jp-okinawa.htm

I travelled to 沖縄 (Okinawa, Japan) for the first time on 25-29 March 2008 to give a talk at the 22nd International Conference on Advanced Information Networking and Applications in 那覇 (Naha) with Christian. We drove nearby to discover the landscapes, relax on the coast, and reach great coffee shops and restaurants. The climate was so warm at night that I barely slept without air conditioning.

Christian and I were globally satisfied by the most famous places of the island. We were impressed by the depictions of war at ひめゆり平和祈念資料館 (Himeyuri Peace Museum) and by the live 7.9m-long whale sharks of 美ら海水族館 (Churaumi Aquarium), which is a great and unique aquarium. Nearby, the less well-known 熱帯ドリームセンター (Tropical Dream Center) was also worth a visit. However, we were disappointed by 首里城 (Shuri castle), a UNESCO world heritage, which was crowded and radiated a theme-park aura; we enjoyed much more the modest and quiet 識名園 (Shikina garden).

After several cold months in 東京 (Tokyo), this stay was a pleasure. Although moving without a car is unrealistic, the pace is slower and the food delicious. I recommend カフェくるくま (Café Kurukuma), オリーブの木店 (Olive tree restaurant), 花人逢レストラン (Restaurant Kajinbo) with its funny menu written on a fan, ブリリアント・モトブヒルズ (Brilliante Motobu Hills), and above all the extraordinary ぱいかじ上之屋店 (Paikaji Uenoya restaurant). Beware however of the アメリカンビレッジ (American village): we enjoyed an interesting ambiance but had terrible food there.

[Update 04-Nov-2008] I explored jungles, walked among traditional houses, and toured beaches in several Southern islands of 沖縄 (Okinawa) during my second trip there, from 31 October to 03 November 2008 (see Post 04 November 2008).