Trip to 천안 (Cheonan, South Korea) on 17 May 2009

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2009-05-17_kr-cheonan.htm

I travelled to 천안 (Cheonan, South Korea) for the first time on 17 May 2009 to visit 외암민속마을 (Oeam folk village) and 독립기념관 (Independence Hall of Korea) in company of 진영 (Jin-young) and 현진 (Hyunjin), two locals. The weather was warm but unfortunately cloudy most of the day.

I enjoyed the trip much as I had never visited a traditional village in South Korea before; it differed in many respects from 白川郷 (Shirakawa-go, Japan), which I visited in 2006 (see Post 06 August 2006): buildings are lower, roofs flatter, and walls along paths more numerous. As for the memorial hall, it was impressive for its hugeness, the beauty of some buildings, the peacefulness of the natural surroundings, and for troubling historical presentations including torture scenes and human-scale models of executions of Koreans by Japanese soldiers. Such crudeness reminded me of 서대문형무소 (Seodaemun Prison, South Korea) in 서울 (Seoul), something I have never witnessed in public spaces outside South Korea.

Stroll at 여의도 (Yeouido, South Korea) on 12 April 2009

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2009-04-12_kr-yeouido.htm

I first walked in 여의도 (Yeouido, South Korea), a part of 서울 (Seoul), on 12 April 2009 to enjoy its famous cherry blossoms. Although the peak had passed, the streets were beautiful, and the blue sky greatly highlighted the flowers. Moving to 여의도 공원 (Yeouido park), I got greeted several times in English by Korean children, who then asked whether I was American, which is unsurprising as most white guys in the country must be American soldiers; the kids looked pretty confused to learn I was French! However, the young adult who accosted me to offer an Easter egg and invite me to join a Christian group was not unsettled by my nationality. Later, I started wondering what spontaneous contacts to expect from women and elders in the capital as well as from all kinds of Koreans in the countryside... Beyond the social sphere, the park itself was enjoyable, with a beautiful statue of 세종대왕 (Sejong the Great) and specific ambiances associated to each area.

Since my move to South Korea, it was my first time to actively visit the capital and reflect upon life here while observing children, families, couples, small and huge groups of friends, and a few elders. People visibly enjoyed their afternoon with diverse activities, infusing the park with peacefulness and liveliness. The nearby cherry trees reminded me of Japanese spots but the open spaces of 北京 (Beijing, China) (see Post 28 July 2007); the greetings from smiling kids, however, had a unique touch.

Hike at 북한산 (Mount Bukhan, South Korea) on 28 February 2009

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2009-02-28_kr-bukhansan.htm

I hiked 북한산 (Mount Bukhan, South Korea) for the first time on 28 February 2009 with 재호 (Jaeho) to enjoy fresh air and surprising views at the highest local peak. We quickly reached the national park by bus from 길음 (Gireum) subway station, hiked three hours to 백운대 (Baegundae peak), lunched at the top, and left by a shorter path closer to 미아 (Mia) subway station. Patches of ice and snow remained but the warm air and clear blue sky favored tee-shirts; I only regret the haze veiling 서울 (Seoul). We hiked through forested mountains, followed the ancient fortifications of 북한산성 (Mount Bukhan fortress), and observed the capital from several perspectives. The closest paths were crowded both ways, and reaching the peak without the metallic cables would have been challenging; only healthy adults free from acrophobia should follow this path. Sandwiches at the top, under the South Korean flag, were a treat.

Since my move to South Korea, I frequently scrutinized the mountains from 남산 (Namsan), a hill at the heart of the capital, wondering how the view would be from the opposite side. From our path on 북한산 (Mount Bukhan), the haze mainly revealed the north of the city, and I was surprised by its extent and organization, notably its blocks of identical buildings. Now, I look forward to seeing the city center from a hiking path facing south.

Trip to 上海 (Shanghai, China) on 17-20 December 2008

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2008-12-19_cn-shanghai.htm

I travelled to 上海 (Shanghai, China) for the first time on 17-20 December 2008 to give a talk there at the 5th International Conference on Embedded and Ubiquitous Computing. Although busy, I enjoyed two evenings under the wings of 俊锋 (Jun-Feng) and 増琦 (Luna), two Chinese friends met during our studies in Japan, now working in the city.

上海 (Shanghai) seemed extremely different from the capital, and reminded me of Paris (France), London (United Kingdom) and Seattle (United States of America) though air-conditioners stood out. Modern buildings and infrastructures were well-lit at night, artistic, frequently unique, and full faces of some skyscrapers served as giant screens. I had a vast choice of Chinese food and eagerly tried a frog stew as well as stir-fried lily roots, appreciating both. Friday was most memorable, attending a show with my two friends while dining 四川菜 (Sichuan cuisine) at 巴国布衣上海长宁店 (Ba Guo Bu Yi restaurant, Shanghai Changning shop) then attending a live jazz performance at 布鲁斯与爵士之屋 (House of Blues & Jazz). Yet, the magic of the evening was dampened down by the omnipresence of mendicants, including young children.

The air of the city suited me better than that of the capital (see Post 28 July 2007) although much dust is noticeable, apparently due to transports and heavy constructions. The air quality sharply contrasts with what I am used to in 東京 (Tokyo, Japan) and 서울 (Seoul, South Korea), which stops short my thoughts about working in China. Tourists however can enjoy a few days and nights there, and I strongly recommend to reserve well-placed tables at 巴国布衣上海长宁店 (Ba Guo Bu Yi restaurant, Shanghai Changning shop) to see its show and at 布鲁斯与爵士之屋 (House of Blues & Jazz) after checking the schedule for special events.

Trip to 西表島 (Iriomote island, Japan) on 31 October - 03 November 2008

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2008-10-31_jp-okinawa.htm

I visited 沖縄 (Okinawa, Japan) for the second time from 31 October to 03 November 2008 to explore jungles, walk among traditional houses, and tour beaches far from the main island. My three sunny days and a rainy day at 26-31°C there with François were a great experience.

Contrasting with 沖縄本島 (main island of Okinawa, see Post 29 March 2008), 西表島 (Iriomote island) is quite wild, with vast protected lands, a unique road at the periphery, and beautiful seas around. We spent Friday on a tour there canoeing a river bordered by mangroves and trekking in the jungle. We encountered numerous fishes, miniature crabs, white ants (aka termites), lively lizards, and a sleeping 波布 (Habu viper) before reaching ピナイサーラの滝 (Pinaisara waterfalls), where the aerial view was captivating. After a short immersion at the bottom, we canoed back then relaxed at the mild 西表島温泉 (Iriomote-jima spa).

We started Saturday contemplating the sea while eating breakfast on the terrace of the friendly and cheap ペンション星の砂 (pension Hoshi-no-suna). Afterwards, we examined the starry sand of 星砂の浜 (Hoshisuna beach), and swam at the warm 月ヶ浜 (Tsukiga beach). Before lunch, we crossed the sea in a cart pulled by a water buffalo to stroll in the botanical garden of 由布島 (Yubu island), where one can enjoy the vegetation as well as butterflies. Finally, we drove to 南風見田の浜 (Haemida beach), where we witnessed impressive natural light shows.

For our last hours at 西表島 (Iriomote island) on Sunday, we cruised 仲間川 (Nakama river) to see mangroves, and incidentally spotted ferocious 南黒鯛 (Minami-kurodai piranhas). We then sailed for 竹富島 (Taketomi island), where we walked among traditional houses, and saw numerous flowers, beautiful waters at コンドイビーチ (Kondoi beach) and a calming sunset at 西桟橋 (Nishisanbashi). Silent, dark and unusually shaped, the village revealed itself mysterious at night.

To wrap up our vacations on Monday, we walked in the streets of 竹富島 (Taketomi island) early morning then sailed for 石垣島 (Ishigaki island), where the rain awaited us, simplifying our visit to a drive around the island. We still had sun at 玉取崎展望台 (Tamatori cape viewing platform) but got much rain afterwards. During a lull, we visited ヤエヤマヤシ (Yaeyama palm tree groves), then drank fresh guava juice while waiting for typhoon-like rain to stop. We finished the day at 川平湾 (Kabira bay) and 川平石崎 (Kabira-ishizaki) before sleeping at the sympathetic やいま日和 (Yaima Byori).

Trip to 鋸山 (Mount Nokogiri, Japan) on 14 September 2008

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2008-09-14_jp-nokogiri.htm

I travelled to 鋸山 (Mount Nokogiri, Japan) for the first time with めぐみ (Megumi) on 14 September 2008 to see the tallest statue of Buddha in Japan. Other memorable sights at 日本寺 (Nihon-ji temple) were the 30.3m-tall 百尺観音 (Hundred-shaku Kannon), 千五百羅漢 (1500 small statues of Arhats), and views of the surrounding lands and sea from the observatory. Before leaving, we relaxed at the closest coffee shop, just after a tunnel on the way to 浜金谷駅 (Hamakanaya station), which had a charming ambiance and a great view over the sea for sunset.

Trip to 富良野 (Furano, Japan) on 03-08 July 2008

Source and photos: http://horizons.free.fr/seikatsu/eng/memories/2008-07-03_jp-furano.htm

I visited 北海道 (Hokkaido, Japan) for the third time in July 2008 to see the famous lavender fields of 富良野 (Furano) and to hike the nearby mountains while no snow prevented it. I spent four full days there with François, including two with 亮 (Ryo), then enjoyed alone a more urban ambience in 札幌 (Sapporo).

On the contrary to 本州 (main island of Japan), 北海道 (Hokkaido) lacks train lines and frequent buses so François and I rented a car from Friday. We first visited the large 旭山動物園 (Asahiyama zoo), which offered panoramic views thanks to its slope and open sky. The animals lived in narrow spaces but looked healthy. I observed much wolves, pandas, baby monkeys, and a black panther, and I hope to see such animals in the wild someday. For a change, we continued with museums dedicated to clothing and snow: 国際染織美術館 (International Dyeing and Weaving Art Museum), 優佳良織工芸館 (Yukara Ori Folk Craft Museum) and 雪の美術館 (Snow Crystals Museum). The first was the most impressive, with well-preserved garments from several countries exhibiting diverse lifestyles and concepts. 亮 (Ryo) joined us in the evening for a great dinner at ハローウィン (Halloween).

On Saturday, we strolled in the splendid lavender fields of ファーム富田 (Farm Tomita) and in the diverse flower fields of 四季彩の丘 (Shikisai-no-oka); superb photos of these landscapes were as usual exhibited at 拓真館 (Takushinkan museum). In another style, 富良野チーズ工房 (Furano cheese factory) offered a unique experience with its robotic milking cow! The best moment of the day though was a delicious chocolate fondue at ジャンゴ (Jungo).

On Sunday, we hiked several hours in 旭岳 (Asahidake), the highest mountain in 北海道 (Hokkaido). The landscapes alternated grass, ponds, flower fields and patches of snow, and are worth a two- or three-days hike... To properly end the day, we visited the small but high-quality 川村カ子トアイヌ記念館 (Kawamura Kaneto Ainu Memorial Museum) dedicated to the indigenous people アイヌ (Ainu), where reading Japanese is quite instructive.

After the departure of 亮 (Ryo) on Monday morning, François and I drove to 十勝岳 (Tokachi-dake), enjoying local beef and grapes juice on the way. The large open space and the green and orange scenery were impressive even with a few clouds. Hiking several days there would be quite an experience. Anyway, 十勝岳温泉 (Tokachidake Onsen) is a must do, and we quietly relaxed there with a view of the valley from the outdoor spa. Finally, François and I enjoyed great coffee in 美瑛 (Biei) at 北工房 (Kita Kouboh).